The quiet science of porosity.
THE SEALED DOOR
Low Porosity Hair
Low porosity hair has tightly packed cuticles that lie flat, making it harder for water and products to pass through. Moisture may bead on the surface at first, and products can feel like they’re sitting on top rather than absorbing. Once moisture gets in, though, this hair type tends to hold onto it well.
Tell-tale signs
- Water beads up on dry strands
- Hair takes longer to fully wet in the shower
- Creams, oils, or leave-ins can feel coated or heavy
- Hair air-dries slowly
- Often looks smooth or shiny with minimal frizz
How to care
- Use warm water or steam to gently encourage absorption
- Choose lightweight, water-based products
- Look for humectants like aloe, glycerin, honey, or panthenol
- Apply products to damp hair so they spread and absorb evenly
- Use less product than you think you need, then build up
- Go easy on heavy butters, waxes, oils, and protein-rich treatments
Best approach
Think lightweight layers, gentle warmth, and patience. Low porosity hair does not need to be forced open , it just needs the right conditions for moisture to slip in.
THE OPEN DOOR
Medium Porosity Hair
Medium porosity hair is the balanced middle. The cuticles are slightly raised, allowing moisture to enter easily while still helping the hair retain hydration. This hair type usually responds well to products, holds styles without much effort, and tends to have a healthy shine with minimal frizz.
Tell-tale signs
- Absorbs water at a steady, even pace
- Feels hydrated without becoming weighed down quickly
- Holds curls, waves, and styles well
- Takes colour or chemical services more evenly
- Has a healthy shine with manageable frizz
How to care
- Keep your routine consistent and simple
- Deep condition regularly to maintain moisture balance
- Use protein occasionally, especially after heat, colour, or chemical services
- Limit excessive heat to protect the cuticle
- Seal in moisture with lightweight oils or creams when needed
- Sleep on silk or satin to reduce friction
Best approach
Medium porosity hair is adaptable, but it still needs maintenance. Focus on balance: enough moisture to keep it soft, enough protein to keep it strong, and enough protection to keep the cuticle healthy.
THE WIDE THRESHOLD
High Porosity Hair
High porosity hair has cuticles that are raised, chipped, or spaced apart, allowing moisture to enter quickly but escape just as fast. This can happen naturally, but it is often linked to colour, bleach, heat styling, chemical services, or environmental stress. Hair may feel dry, frizzy, rough, or prone to tangling, but it can thrive with rich moisture, strengthening treatments, and proper sealing.
Tell-tale signs
- Hair absorbs water almost immediately
- Dries quickly after washing
- Frizzes easily, especially in humidity
- Feels rough, dry, or straw-like between wash days
- Tangles easily and may form knots
- Breaks easily, especially around the ends or mid-lengths
- Products absorb fast but hair still feels dry later
How to care
- Layer moisture using the LOC method: liquid, oil, cream
- Use richer creams, butters, and sealing oils to lock in hydration
- Deep condition regularly to restore softness and elasticity
- Add protein treatments every 2–4 weeks, depending on damage level
- Rinse with cool water to help smooth the cuticle
- Limit bleach, excessive heat, and harsh chemical services
- Detangle gently with slip-rich conditioners
- Protect hair overnight with silk or satin
Best approach
High porosity hair needs moisture that stays. Focus on layering, sealing, and strengthening the strand so hydration does not disappear too quickly. Rich products, gentle handling, and regular repair treatments can help this hair feel softer, smoother, and more resilient.
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I.Take a shed strand from a clean brush never a recently-washed one, as conditioner skews the result. Drop it into a glass of room-temperature water and wait 4 minutes. If it floats, you’re low porosity. Suspended in the middle, medium. Sunk to the bottom, high.
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II. Mist a small section of dry, product-free hair with water. Watch closely. Beads that sit on top? Low. Slowly soaks in? Medium. Disappears almost instantly? High. The fastest read in the trio.
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III. Hold a single strand between thumb and forefinger and slide upward toward the root. Smooth and slick means low. A little texture is medium. Bumpy, rough, or catching against your fingers signals high porosity and a lifted cuticle.
